Embroidery made for Queen’s coronation gown is expected to raise thousands for Derbyshire seller

The unnamed seller, whose aunt worked for royal dress designer Norman Hartnell, is parting with the 70-year-old framed sample which is estimated to make £1,500 to £2,000 at auction on May 16.

Notty Hornblower, owner of Derbyshire’s Hope House Costume Museum, said: “This embroidery is exquisite and a stunning auction find. It was made during months of painstaking work to make a dress which became an historic masterpiece. It demonstrates the remarkable care and attention to detail that went into creating a gown worthy of the Queen for the first televised coronation, a milestone for the monarchy.

“As we look forward to King Charles’ coronation on May 6, it exemplifies the standard of royal pageantry our nation has come to know and love.”

The elaborate embroidery was inspired by collaboration between Queen Elizabeth and Hartnell. It depicts the emblems of the four home nations and the Commonwealth, in silver and gold thread, diamante, silver bullion and mother-of-pearl. It comes with handwritten notes titled ‘Coronation dress emblems’, detailing colours and materials for each emblem.

Notty, who is textile consultant for the Derbyshire based auctioneer Hansons, said: “Hartnell gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth and made her wedding gown. She called upon his skills again to create her white satin coronation dress in similar form. We will never forget how beautiful she looked at her coronation.”

Hartnell produced around nine designs in total and, along the way, examples of decorative embroidery were made for the Queen to approve. She wanted her dress to honour the nation she served so emblems of Great Britain were created. However, the Commonwealth could not be forgotten either. Consequently, embroidery was made featuring flowers of the Commonwealth with the Tudor Rose at its centre.”

Notty said: “The Queen’s desire to ensure her dress honoured all those she served demonstrated her devotion to duty. She liked her coronation dress so much she wore it six more times, one event being the Opening of Parliament in New Zealand and Australia in 1954."

Queen Elizabeth II was 25 when she was crowned at London’s Westminster Abbey on June 2, 1953. It was the start of a lifetime of loyal service. When the nation lost her at the age of 96 in September 2022 she had reigned for 70 years and 214 days, the longest period of any female monarch in history.

Notty said: “It is thanks to Hartnell’s kindness that this sample has been saved for posterity. The seller’s late aunt worked as a PA for the designer for 43 years. Hartnell gave her the embroidery.

"For any admirer of our late Queen, I can’t think of a more touching royal memento to cherish.”

The embroidery, together elegant watercolour clothing designs created before 1952 for the then Princess Elizabeth and the Queen (Queen Mother) by Norman Hartnell, will be offered in Hansons Auctioneers’ Monarchs and Majesty Auction. Entries are invited until April 28.

Royal memorabilia can be assessed at a special valuation event at Hansons, Heage Lane, Etwall, Derbyshire on April 22, from 10am to noon. To find out more, email Isabel Murtough: [email protected]